Notching device



T. LOEW NOTCHING DEVICE Nov. 21, 1950 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Sept. 28, 1949 INVENTOR. am BY Npv. 21, 1950 T. LOEW 2,530,830

NOTCHING DEVICE Filed Sept. 28, 1949 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Nov. 21, 1950 N OTCHING DEVICE Theodore Loew, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to Trubenizing Process Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application September 28, 1949, Serial No. 118,320

11 Claims.

When garment parts or similar articles havin a re-entrant angle are made by the familiar run-and-turn method, 1. e. are first run or stitched together and then turned inside out, it is necessary to notch the fabric extending from the seam at the re-entrant point to the edge of the fabric so as to permit forming, as desired, either a smooth clean sharp corner or a well-rounded part at the crotch of the re-entrant angle.

This circumstance applies particularly to onepiece collars where the collartop portion meets the band-end.

This notching must be performed carefully; if it is too deep, it will out the stitch or cause it to break out, and if it is too shallow, it will prevent forming a proper sharp or rounded crotch.

The, object of this invention is to provide a simple machine which will perform the operation of notching quickly and accurately.

The invention will be understood by reference to the drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic section through a fabric part, e. g. a collar, comprising three layers of fabric stitched together near one edge;

. Fig. 2 illustrates the fabric part shown in Figure 1 after it has been turned inside out Fig. 3 is a plan view of the end portion of a one-piece collar after the same has been run;

Fig. 4 is a plan View of the collar portion shown in Figure 3 after the same has been turned inside out;

Fig. 5 is an isometric view of a device for performing the notching operation; and

Fig. 6 is a side elevation, partly in section, of the notching device shown in Figure 5, showing how the notching operation is performed by the machine.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 shows a section of three plies of fabric la, lb and lo after they have been run or stitched together by a stitch 2, with the face-ply lb in the middle and the lining ply lc lowermost. After stitching, the plies are turned inside out, with the face-ply lb uppermost, as shown in Figure 2.

.- Figure 3 shows one end portion of a one-piece collar when it is in a, state corresponding to Figure 1, that is, after the plies have been run or stitched together by the stitch 2 but before the same has been turned inside out.

This one-piece collar comprises a collartop portion 3a and a band portion 3b. Where the collartop and band portions meet a crotch is formed, shown at 30. It is at this point 30 that it is necessary to form the'notch 4 so that when the collar 2 is turned inside out the crotch 30 will be smooth and nicely rounded.

The notch 4 must extend not quite to the stitch 2 but must come close enough to itto within about or thereaboutsso as to allow the formation of a smooth crotch at 30 after turning, as shown in Figure 4. The dotted line in this figure indicates the edge of the material turned in, in the neighborhood of the crotch, after turning.

To accomplish this notching, a template 5 is provided as shown in Figure 5. This template has a portion 5a corresponding to the end portion of a collartop of a one-piece collar and a portion 511 corresponding to the end portion of the collar band. Between them is a re-entrant part 50. The stitch 2 shown in Figure 3 is intended to fit snugly against the edge of the template in the neighborhood of the re-entrant portion 50. In this way the crotch of the collar is accurately located in the machine.

The template 5 is mounted on a swinging arm 6 which is pivoted at l to a base 8. The pivot 1 may be adjustable so as to allow free swinging of the arm 6 without shake.

Fastened to the base 8 is an upright rod 9 which carries on it a slidable block l0. Projecting laterally from the block I0 is a short rod ll carrying another small block l2 which is held in position on the rod ll by means of the set screw 13.

A pointed knife blade I4 is mounted on this block l2 by means of its shank Me which is positioned on the block l2 by means of the pins IS. The screwhead l6 clamps the shank I la against the face of the block l2 thereby securing the knife blade l i firmly in predetermined position. A guard member I! fastened by screws l8 to the block l2 completes the essential details of the machine.

In operation, after the parthas been run, it is slipped over the template 5 as shown by the dotted lines in Figure 5 and in cross-section in Figure 6. The fabric part to be notched is firmly pressed on the template so that the stitching at the crotch 3c of the collar is pressed against the re-entrant part 50 of the template 5. The template is then swung towards and beyond the point of the knife blade l4 so that the point of the knife first pierces the fabric just above the re-entrant part 50 and then, by continuing the motion of the arm, cuts the fabric from the piercing point out to the edge of the fabric so as to form notch 4.

A single rapid stroke of the arm 6 suffices to accomplish this result. The guard ll minimizes Alternatively, the block I may be permanently fastened to the rod 9 and the vertical adjustment of the point of the knife l4 maybe obtained-by. rocking the block [2 aroundthe rod ll so as to raise or lower the point of the knife M to the desired setting. Lateral adjustment. of theknife; is obtained by sliding the block 42 onthetrodl H to the desired position. In other words, both the lateral and the vertical adjustments may be obtained by rotating and sliding the block 1-2 on the rod I I. This is the preferred Way-ofobtain ing the=necessary adjustment;

1. In an. apparatus forv not'ohing a run-andturnedfabric'part after running but'before turn-.-

ing, the combination of a stationary base; a, pointed fiat'cutting member stationarily mounted.

on said base vertically spaced from the same; a supporting, member adapted to hold and locate saidffabric part. by, means of the running stitch in the neighborhood of the, edge. portion. to be,

notched; and pivoting means turnably attachingsaid" supporting member to saidbaseso that said' supporting member, is turnable past said pointed'rlat' cutting member about anaxis being" normal. to the. plane of said pointed flat cutting. member, thus enabling turning ofJsaid'supporting member with said fabric partheld by the same. towardsesaid pointed'fiat cutting member so as to first. cause thepointvof saidpointed flat.cut-- ting member. to pierce, the fabric. part close. to, the running stitch betweensaid stitch and the.

edgeportionto be notched.and..then.to.cause the cutting edge of said.pointedflat.cuttingmember tQcutthefabricfrom said piercingpoint to said.

edges portion.

2. In; an. apparatus for notchin a run-andturned fabric part after runnin but before turning, the combination of. a. stationary; base;; a pointed fiat cutting knife1stationarily mounted: on; said base vertically spaced. from the. same;v a template adapted, to hold and locate said fab ric part,by.means of the running stitch in the neighborhood-of; the edge portion to be'notched;

and pivoting means turnably attaching said teme plate-,tosaidbaseaso thatsaidtemplate is turnaable past said pointed fiat cutting knife about anaxisbeingnormal to the plane ofsaidpointed fiat cutting knife, thus-enablingturning of said template withsaid fabric. part-heldby thesa-me.

towards =said pointed fiat cutting. knife was to first. causethe'pointiof said pointed. flat cutting knife .to piercev the fabric part close to the. running'stitch between saidstitch and theedge.por-- tion tobenotchediand then to cause the cutting edgewofsaid pointed fiatcutting knife to cut the fabricfrom saidpiercin point to said edge .portion...

3- In an. apparatus for notching a. run-andturnedfabric .part after running but-before turn-- ing, the combination of a stationary base; a pointed flat-cuttingknife stationarilymounted-on said ,base .verticallyspaced from the. same ateme plate adapted to hold and locate said fabric part by means of the running stitch in the neighbor= hood of the edge portion to be notched; pivoting mean turnably attaching said template to said base so that said template is turnable past said pointed flat cutting knife about an axis being normal to the plane of said pointed fiat cutting knife, thus enabling turning of said template withsaid fabric part held by thersame towards said-pointed flat cutting knife so as to first cause the point of said pointed fiat cutting knife to pierce the fabric part close. to the running stitch between said stitch and the edge portion to be notched and then to cause the cutting edge of said' pointedflatcutting knife to cut the fabric from:said'1piercing point to said edge portion; and means for adjusting the position of said pointed fiatcutting; knife: relative to said base by turning about an axis parallel to the axis of turning ofsaidpivoting means and sliding in direction of said axis.

42 In an apparatusfor notching: a run-andturned fabric part after running; but -before turning, the combination of a stationary base"; a knife'support on saidbase including'aknife supporting rod; a-pointedflat cutting knife mounted on saidknife supporting rod slida'blyr along and turnably" about saidirod and extending:in-- a plane normal to said rod;' means: forlocking said flat cuttin -knifeto said knife supporting rod in any.

desired position of' slidin andturning; a supporting member adapted to: hold and locate. the: fabric part by means of the running stitch in: the neighborhood: of. the edge 1 portion"-- to be notched; and pivotingmeans==turnab1y attaching saidisup porting. member to I said base so.( that said sup porting member is turnabl" past said pointed flat cutting knifeabout-an axis being-'parallel to said knife supporting; rod,.thus enabling turn ing of said supportingmember. with said fabric part?- held; by; the; sameta toward said 1 pointed flat cutting knife so as to first cause the point of saidipointedzfiattcutting knife toipierce the fabric par-t. close: to the running stitch: between: said stitch and the edge portion toben'ot'che'dand then to: cause the cuttin edge of said pointed fiat cuttin knife to cut the fabric'from-saidpiercing' point t'osaid edge portion.

5. In: an apparatus= for notcliing' a run-andturned fabric-partzafter running but-before turningrthezcombinationrof a stationary base; a knife support on said base including a knife supporting rod; a" pointed flat: cuttingknife mounted on said knifeasupportingirod slidably: along and" turnablyrabouttsaidzrodand-extending in a plane normal; to said rod; meansctfor: locking: said: flat cutting 'knifeztorsaid knifeisupportingrod in anydesired position of sliding and turning;'a:tem' plate--:adaptedzto:hold locate: the fabric apart by means:- of, therrunnings. stitcliin-s tlre'eneigl'ibor.-'; hood of ;the=-edge1portion1- tobe. notched"; a supportingvarm holding saimtemplate; and pivotingmeansiturnablyzattachingsaid:supporting: arm to: saidsbaseso :thati-saidztemplatei is .turnable' past said pointed fiat cutting-knife:about an axisbe ingizpara-llel to SElidI: knife: supporting rod; thus enabling; turning of; said; template with said; fabriczpartilieldrby the-same towardsssaid pointed' flat cutting :knif so as to: first'causezthe pointtofr. said pointed fiat, cuttings knife: to: pierce: the: fabric. parti close-to the: running; stitch between saida stitch and the: edge: portion: to'; be: notched. and .then ;to cause the cuttingledge of zsaidfllloint-- ed :flat cutting. knifeto. cut..therfabricrfrom"said. piercing point-tov said; edge 3 portion;

6. In an apparatus for notching a run-andturned fabric part after running but before turning. the combination of a stationary base; a supporting post mounted on said base; a knife supporting rod mounted on said supporting post slidably along and turnably about the same; means for locking said knife supporting rod to said supporting post in any desired position of sliding and turning; a pointed flat cutting knife mounted on said knife supporting rod slidably along and turnably about said rod and extending i a plane normal to said rod; means for locking said flat cutting knife to said knife supporting rod in any desired position of sliding and turning; a supporting member adapted to hold and locate the fabric part by means of the running stitch in the neighborhood of the edge portion to be notched; and pivoting means turnably attach-' pointed fiat cutting knife about an axis being parallel to said knife supporting rod, thus enabling turning ofsaid supporting member with said fabric part held by the same towards said pointed flat cutting knife so as to first cause the point of said pointed flat cutting knife to pierce the fabric part close to the running stitch between said stitch and the edge portion to be notched and then to cause the cutting edge of said pointed flat cutting knife to out the fabric from said piercing point to said edge portion.

'7. In an apparatus for notching a run-andturned fabric part after running but before turning, the combination of a stationary base; a supporting post mounted on said base; a knife supporting rod mounted on said supporting post slidably along and turnably about the same; means for locking said knife supporting rod to said supporting post in any desired position of sliding and turning; a pointed flat cutting knife mounted on said knife supporting rod slidably along and turnably about said rod and extending in a plane normal to said rod; means for locking said flat cutting knife to said knife supporting rod in any desired position of sliding and turning; a template adapted to hold and locate the fabric part by means of the running stitch in the neighborhood of the edge portion to be notched; a supporting arm holding said template; and pivoting means turnably attaching said supporting arm to said base so that said template is turnable past said pointed flat cutting knife about an axis being parallel to said knife supporting rod, thus enabling turning of said template with said fabric part held by the same towards said pointed fiat cutting knife so as to first cause the point of said pointed flat cutting knife to pierce the fabric part close to the running stitch between said stitch and the edge portion to be notched and then to cause the cutting edge of said'pointed flat cutting knife to cut the fabric from said piercing point to said edge portion.

8. In an apparatus for notching a run-andturned fabric part after running but before turning, the combination of a stationary base; a knife support on said base including a knife supporting rod; a knife holder mounted on said knife supporting rod slidably along and turnably about said rod; means for locking said knife holder to said knife supporting rod in any desired position of sliding and turning; a pointed fiat cutting knife movably mounted on said knife holder and extending in a plane normal to said rod; means for locking'said cutting knife to said knife holder in any desired position; a supporting member adapted to hold and locate the fabric part by means of the running stitch in the neighborhood of, the edge portion to be notched; and pivoting means turnably attaching said supporting member to said base so that said supporting member is turnable past said pointedfl'at'cutting knife about an axis being parallel to said knife supporting rod, thus enabling turning of said sup-' porting member with said fabric part held by the same towards said pointed flat cutting knife so as to first cause the point of said pointed flat cutting knife to pierce the fabric part close to the running stitch between said stitch and the edge portion to be notched and then to cause the cutting edge of said pointed flat cutting knife to cut the fabric from said piercing point to said edge portion. g

9. In an apparatus for notching a run-andturned fabric part after running but before turning, the combination of a stationary base; a knife support on said base including a knife supporting rod; a knife holder mounted on said knife supporting rods slidably along and turnably about said rod; means for locking said knife holder to said knife supporting rod in any desired position of sliding and turning; a pointed fiat cutting knife movably mounted on said knife holder and extending in a plane normal to said rod; means for locking said cutting knife to said knife holder in any desired position; a template adapted to hold and locate the fabric part by means of the running stitch in the neighborhood of the edge portion to be notched; a supporting arm holding said template; and pivoting means turnably attaching said supporting arm to said base so that said template is turnable past said pointed flat cutting knife about an axis being parallel to said knife supporting rod, thus enabling turning of said template with said fabric part held by the same towards said pointed flat cutting knife so as to first cause the point of said pointed flat cut-- ting knife to pierce the fabric part close to the running stitch between said stitch and the edge portion to be notched and then to cause the cutting edge of said pointed flat cutting knife to cut the fabric from said piercing point to said edge portion.

10. In an apparatus for notching a run-andturned fabric part after running but before turning, the combination of a stationary base; a supporting post mounted on said base; a knife supporting rod mounted on said supporting post slidably along and turnably about the same; means for locking said knife supporting rod to said supporting post in any desired position of sliding and turning; a knife holder mounted on said knife supporting rod slidably along and turnably about said rod; means for locking said knife holder to said knife supporting rod in any desired position of sliding and turning; a pointed fiat cutting knife movably mounted on said knife holder and extending in a plane normal to said rod; means for locking said cutting knife to said knife holder in any desired position; a supporting member adapted to hold and locate the fabric part by means of the running stitch in the neighborhood of the edge portion to be notched; and pivoting means turnably attaching said supporting member to said base so that said supporting member is turnable past said pointed flat cutting knife about an axis being parallel to said knife supporting rod, thus enabling turning of said supporting member with said fabric part held by the same towards said pointed flat cutting knife so as to first cause the point of said poi'zitedi fla't=duttingiknife tb pierce the fabric 'part 11; man apparatus for notchihg' a run-mid tu rx ied fabric par-v afte'r 'r-ii'n'xi'i'rig but before tin-I iilig fihe co'mb-insltidn of asfizitidriail 'y Base? a;- sun portiiig post-mduntd on salid base; a krii-f sup porting rod mounted" on" said supp'ortirig fids't slid a151y along andtiirliakily ahout the same: means foriocki'n'gsaid knifesupportingrod t'o said'sup parting pdst in any desiied positiofi of slidin zirfd turning; a holder mo'uritecf ox'i" said knifsupporting rod slidabli alon'g aridjttirria blyabout said rod; means for locking" s'aicl-' k"r1'ife fibicirtbsaid 'lhifsupportihg'rddiii any desifgzci pkisitibn of" sliding" aL-nd' tui'nirig} a} pbihted fiat cutting: linif mo'vablj mounted on" said knife Holder and extending in a plane norma'ito Said ro'd means for "locking said cutting knife tosaid k'ni' f hold er in any dsiredpo'sitiojm: a; template adaptd to hold" and ldcate the' fabrib part' 'b'y" mans of the-running. stitch in theneighborhood of the edge'por-tion to be notched; and pivbting means tul nablyf attaching said template to said fioifited flat cutting-knife to p'ierce the fabric art c'liis'etd th runnin stitch between said stitch arm the 'dg pbi'tioh to be notched and then to REFERENCES CITED' I The fbl ioviiingi re'fer'ences a'r of record in the file of this patent:

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